@ John Knox House, Edinburgh, Thu 25 Jun 2015
A rather low-key affair, the Midsummer Edinburgh Old Town Celebrations, but worth seeking out for the added extras the visitor gets when they step inside John Knox House. This fifteenth century building forms part of the Scottish Storytelling Centre and tour host Donald Smith (Dr no less) greets the group with a cheery ‘Friends!’ to gather attention and commence the tour. The tour is in good hands; Smith, a novelist, playwright and ex-theatre director has worked here for many years and his most recent book The Pilgrim Guide to Scotland, which brings together 25 years of thorough research, is on sale at the Centre’s shop where the original wooden beams are so low you can smell the history. Smith’s absorbing delivery is highly entertaining and his lilting Scottish accent make it easy to understand.
No spoilers here, but what in itself is an extremely interesting building is further brought to life by Smith’s narrative; he makes the tour quite literally interactive. Two floors of the house are given over to exhibitions covering the life of John Knox and the house’s other inhabitants, including the goldsmith James Mossman; these are also curated by Smith. Questions are raised, mysteries mulled-over and theories pondered. He is a comfortable storyteller and makes connections with the group. He points out some rare tiles to the Dutch woman, and discusses Scottish/Irish migration with a woman from Australia. It is, in fact, a bespoke tour, only usually available at greater cost, though still highly recommended if touring in a group.
This type of engaging tour with an expert is not for those expecting a Disney-esque trip through time, there are no bells and whistles here, no passive experience. This is for those who like their history neat, like a decent malt whisky, something to be savoured.
History is a funny thing, assumptions are made as to the “otherness” of the past, the simplicity and sterility of events represented as factual lists, names and dates, but as Smith points out, the tale is never simple and his tales cover themes of investment opportunities, planning permission, building development, political spin and economic migration. It feels very contemporary and reminds the group that times may change but people never do.
John Knox House is open Mon – Sat from 10am – 6pm and on Sun from 12pm – 6pm during July & August